I'm not going to pleat the raw edge. I didn't explain well. On the gown side, in the armhole, I bound the raw edge with linen, assuming that I would sew the sleeve on with a sleeve allowance, like I always do. If I have to fold the edge over, I will, but the lining is very stiff hemp and might be weird.
On the sleeve side, I'm trying to figure out how to finish the sleevehead edge (silk and lining) without needing to trim it. Maybe I'll double roll both edges and finish them, and then sew them together. A double roll is narrower, and frequently doesn't need clipping. Hmm.
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I'm not going to pleat the raw edge. I didn't explain well. On the gown side, in the armhole, I bound the raw edge with linen, assuming that I would sew the sleeve on with a sleeve allowance, like I always do. If I have to fold the edge over, I will, but the lining is very stiff hemp and might be weird.
On the sleeve side, I'm trying to figure out how to finish the sleevehead edge (silk and lining) without needing to trim it. Maybe I'll double roll both edges and finish them, and then sew them together. A double roll is narrower, and frequently doesn't need clipping. Hmm.