On the sleevehead edge, I would trim the lining so that you get one fold from it and 2 folds from the outer fabric, folding both at the seam line and the outer fabric over the seam allowance of the lining, then stitch those down.
If you want me to draw that out, I can try.
As for the gown side, I'd probably need to play with it to see how best to not have the bulk of the hemp getting in the way of making an edge to stitch the pleats to. But chances are, I'd be grading the seam allowances somehow, possibly cutting the hemp at the seam and binding the edge of it with the outer fabric if the outer fabric is sturdy enough to hold the seam.
no subject
On the sleevehead edge, I would trim the lining so that you get one fold from it and 2 folds from the outer fabric, folding both at the seam line and the outer fabric over the seam allowance of the lining, then stitch those down.
If you want me to draw that out, I can try.
As for the gown side, I'd probably need to play with it to see how best to not have the bulk of the hemp getting in the way of making an edge to stitch the pleats to. But chances are, I'd be grading the seam allowances somehow, possibly cutting the hemp at the seam and binding the edge of it with the outer fabric if the outer fabric is sturdy enough to hold the seam.