chargirlgenius (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
chargirlgenius) wrote2010-03-25 07:23 pm
chargirlgenius) wrote2010-03-25 07:23 pm
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The stuff in between
You could take that to mean “the stuff in between the lining and the hemp”, or to mean the stuff that I did between posting pictures a month ago and last week. :-D
I’ve finished uploading pictures to the Arming Cote Picture Gallery. There might be some rearranging yet, but most of what’s going to be there is there.
During crunch time, I didn’t actually post that many pictures or describe my thought process much. Since I documented the heck out of everything else, I’d like to make it a complete garment diary.
I’m breaking this up into several posts, since there are a LOT of pictures in here.
Starting to pad and quilt the upper sleeve
The upper sleeve is the sleeve of many pieces. I wanted to lay out the padding on each section, trimming away seam allowances, and space for the seam allowance that was already there to lay flat. So, quite a bit of the padding was actually cut away, but the entire upper sleeve was relatively uniform. When the seam allowance from the hemp and interlining was flattened down, I didn’t need as much padding in that section. In some places, I still left a couple of layers of padding layers. In others, I cut it all away. Honestly, I don’t think it made that much difference.
The front gore. More of the S/A on the padding will still be cut away.
I pinned each section in place, instead of sewing all of the sections to each other. They’re just quilted between the layers.
This is one of the back gores. You can see how I cut away room for the S/A to lay flat.
The points of the two back gores. By the way, the blue linen is the layer just inside of the lining, which is beige linen.
The front gore. You can see I left off the S/A at the edge, as well.
Every place there was a seam, I pinned the layers together and left them. I wanted the seams to line up.
The beige linen lining pinned in, at the seams.
After inserting the beige lining, I pinned everything up the wazoo, and pinned it shut. This was just to adjust pins for the curve of the sleeve. For the most part, the gores and upper shoulder pieces stayed the way they were. But the part around the arm just above the elbow curved significantly, so I did this to pin those layers together when they were curved.
See the X? That’s where I left unquilted, so I could add in additional shoulder padding later. I ended up adding each piece separately, so I should have just added it when doing the layers in the first place. Oh well, next time. I thought I might add one additional pad, extending from the shoulder into the neck piece, but that would have been wonky. (technical term)
Once all of the pins were in the upper sleeve tacking the layers in place where I wanted them, I unpinned the seam, laid it out flat, and pre quilted the sleeve. I used chalk on the reverse to mark the quilting lines. Then I went with a long needle and thread and made 1” stitches along those lines. That served a dual purpose – marking the quilting lines and tacking the layers together with all curves taken into account.
Only once those lines were marked, did I sew the upper sleeve tube permanently. I did the same seam that I did elsewhere on the garment. First, running/back stitch mix of the hemp and interlining. Then I folded the lining over and sewed that down, like the diagram I posted a while back.
No pics. Sorry.
I’ve finished uploading pictures to the Arming Cote Picture Gallery. There might be some rearranging yet, but most of what’s going to be there is there.
During crunch time, I didn’t actually post that many pictures or describe my thought process much. Since I documented the heck out of everything else, I’d like to make it a complete garment diary.
I’m breaking this up into several posts, since there are a LOT of pictures in here.
Starting to pad and quilt the upper sleeve
The upper sleeve is the sleeve of many pieces. I wanted to lay out the padding on each section, trimming away seam allowances, and space for the seam allowance that was already there to lay flat. So, quite a bit of the padding was actually cut away, but the entire upper sleeve was relatively uniform. When the seam allowance from the hemp and interlining was flattened down, I didn’t need as much padding in that section. In some places, I still left a couple of layers of padding layers. In others, I cut it all away. Honestly, I don’t think it made that much difference.
The front gore. More of the S/A on the padding will still be cut away.
I pinned each section in place, instead of sewing all of the sections to each other. They’re just quilted between the layers.
This is one of the back gores. You can see how I cut away room for the S/A to lay flat.
The points of the two back gores. By the way, the blue linen is the layer just inside of the lining, which is beige linen.
The front gore. You can see I left off the S/A at the edge, as well.
Every place there was a seam, I pinned the layers together and left them. I wanted the seams to line up.
The beige linen lining pinned in, at the seams.
After inserting the beige lining, I pinned everything up the wazoo, and pinned it shut. This was just to adjust pins for the curve of the sleeve. For the most part, the gores and upper shoulder pieces stayed the way they were. But the part around the arm just above the elbow curved significantly, so I did this to pin those layers together when they were curved.
See the X? That’s where I left unquilted, so I could add in additional shoulder padding later. I ended up adding each piece separately, so I should have just added it when doing the layers in the first place. Oh well, next time. I thought I might add one additional pad, extending from the shoulder into the neck piece, but that would have been wonky. (technical term)
Once all of the pins were in the upper sleeve tacking the layers in place where I wanted them, I unpinned the seam, laid it out flat, and pre quilted the sleeve. I used chalk on the reverse to mark the quilting lines. Then I went with a long needle and thread and made 1” stitches along those lines. That served a dual purpose – marking the quilting lines and tacking the layers together with all curves taken into account.
Only once those lines were marked, did I sew the upper sleeve tube permanently. I did the same seam that I did elsewhere on the garment. First, running/back stitch mix of the hemp and interlining. Then I folded the lining over and sewed that down, like the diagram I posted a while back.
No pics. Sorry.