Tents

Aug. 16th, 2011 08:44 am
chargirlgenius: (Default)
I know my fall project is supposed to be 18th c., but it occurred to me that if Henry and I are going to be going to events just the two of us, it might behoove me to start on my tentmaking projects. I'd thought about a smaller hoop, for proof of concept, but I think if I'm going to have something simple done fast, a small wedge might be better. It would have to be just big enough for two cots and a small aisle down the middle. The engineering should be simple enough.

I liked the bell wedge I used at HRM, but I *need* morning light to help wake me up. If I made this, we could let the boys use it once we get the behemoth made. I *should* start the tests and engineering for that. Pennsic is sounding tempting for next year, and I want a new tent before we do it again.
chargirlgenius: (Default)
So, despite my medical malaise today, I forced myself to make progress on my dress. Once a project is on the table, I can sew through anything. But it takes a special alignment of the planets to get me to start anything. Anybody else like that?

Here is the fabric and lining. This is the 1470s V-neck gown:


(Since hardly anybody actually posts on LJ/DW anymore, does anybody actually care if there's an uncut reasonably-sized picture anymore?)
chargirlgenius: (Default)
It's been a while since we've hosted sewing day on a Sunday afternoon around here. And since Jeff is spending most weekends cranking on the basement, I'm hesitant to commit to too much activity on Sunday afternoons.

But last weekend, I was listening to the Ponte Alto folks talk about their Friday newcomers' socials. I love having people over, but most weeknights are just ratty for people to come all the way out here. (It's a dreadful irony that I have a nice house for a lot of socializing, but we're too far away for much to happen on a casual basis.)

You know, some Friday nights would probably work out pretty well for us. Jeff doesn't usually work on the basement in the evenings, and we're not big on going out on Friday nights. Kids have to be in bed anyway!

I'm feeling a need to be social again after the winter. Would Friday night newcomers/sewing socials be of any interest to anybody? Would it be too far from everybody in the world, even Dun Carraig-ites? We could try it once a month, and maybe still try to have some Sunday sewing starting in April or May as well.

Besides, now that we don't have the cleaning lady anymore, I need some regular need to pick up and clean my house... :-D
chargirlgenius: (Default)
I posted that the frilled veil was done, but now it's really done. I stitched the two layers together so they don't slide around on my head.

One thing I'd considered before making it was the choice between a rectangular veil and one that has a semicircle back. The rectangular veil needs some creative pinning to make work, which was a count against it. But the semicircular back wouldn't be a simple folded layer, and once you do the pinning, all looks just fine. I still have to play a bit with the pinning, but it's at the 80% point, I think.

And now I also have some pictures:

pictures below the cut )

Hopefully, I'll have pictures of the whole outfit next weekend. Medieval hairpieces always look goofy with jammies. :-D
chargirlgenius: (Default)
I need to take a lot more process pictures, but this gives an idea of how the frilled veil is going.

(Geeking planning post here for DW or here for LJ)

pictures below the cut )

I have the first frill entirely attached and arranged into order. The ends aren't done, as I haven't thought about how I want to finish it up yet. The second frill is about a quarter of the way attached. It actually goes a lot more quickly than I thought it would - especially since I'm not ripping it off three times like I did at Pennsic.
chargirlgenius: (Default)
This won't mean much now, but I need a placeholder for when I write about it later.

The frill itself is roughly 200" long. It's pleated in to 44" of veil edge. That makes it a 1":4.5" ratio.

The total band is about 210" long. On the first side, 30" were not pleated in, so that was 180 pleated in to the 44 inches, with a ratio of 1":4.1", which seemed a little light.

As long as I'm posting, is there a standard ratio for cartridge pleating? Google doesn't give me anything right off the bat - what do you use?
chargirlgenius: (Default)
For every one thing I cross off of my pre-Pennsic list, I seem to add two more. Things are getting done, though. I got Jeff’s doublet put together over the weekend, took in two dresses, did a bunch of ironing, and planned out a frilled veil. More details on that below.

I think I have enough clothes. Well, there’s never enough, but it’ll do. :-D Right now my problem is deciding what to wear and when. Tuesday is the roughest day. The St. Michael’s tournament is in the afternoon, with a time period of 1410. That’s from 4-6. I have another engagement at 6pm. The Armour Archive gathering is at 8pm. Then after that, I want to visit Sir Gaston’s new new Pennsic House housewarming party. The trouble is, I have the perfect outfit for the 1410 St. Michael’s Tournament. I also have the perfect outfit for Sir Gaston’s Pennsic house, which has some late 15th c. decoration elements in it. They are not the same outfit. I have no time to change!

Not just a first world problem, a first world geek gentry problem.

In other news, I started planning a frilled veil, that I may try to cut and work on at Pennsic. Along with the five other things that I’d like to work on at Pennsic. In any case, I wrote out my explanation and justification last night to send out to the La Belle list, but I figured I might as well post it here as well. I’m open to commentary and constructive criticism!

Frilled veil geekiness )
chargirlgenius: (Default)
The original plan was to make two wool and two linen dresses for Pennsic. The revised plan was to bag the fourth dress - the chocolate brown wool one. I was running out of time and hoping to start another project beforehand.

Now that I have everything but sleeves on two dresses, everything but sleeves and hem on the third, I've picked the fourth dress back up again. After working on two linen dresses, I'm just so happy to be working with wool again! Unless the linen is significantly cooler (I don't expect it to be any different, actually) I don't think I'll be doing that again. The eyelets were painful to poke, compared to doing it in wool. Even just pulling the threads through for the eyelets was more of a pain.

Ugh. Linen sucks.

I whipped through more than half of the eyelets yesterday evening on the brown dress. I think that the hems take me longer than the eyelets. That's an interesting thing to consider.

Jeff's making good progress on the chests that he'll have for sale at Pennsic. They're really sweet. I'll nudge him to post pictures and a description.
chargirlgenius: (Default)
I have a piece of fabric I bought almost 10 years ago. It’s beautiful stuff – 90% silk, 10% linen, creamy brocade with little gold fleurs-de-lis on it. It’s a perfect fabric for a sumptuous 14th century dress. I’ve been hanging on to it for a long time, waiting for just the right project. After a while, fabric speaks to you, and tells you what it wants to be.

The problem with figuring out what I wanted to make was that I only had five yards, it’s single direction, and only about 45 inches wide. I could squeak out a 14th century dress with short sleeves, but the gores would definitely have to go the wrong way, and I couldn’t get over that. I know I should, it’s fine, but it was a mental block. I wanted this fabric to turn into a *perfect* dress.

I pulled the fabric out at the La Belle meeting, since we were talking about spiffing stuff up. After admiring it, I decided to check the yardage. I unfolded it, and it’s more like 54” wide! WIN!

Then I started measuring length. Yard after yard I pulled out. After yard after yard. Er, I have almost EIGHT YARDS of it! Not five!

This is why we let fabric age. It GROWS!

Now, I still am left with a decision on what to make out of it. I need to find some similarly colored gold silk for the lining. A white lining makes the dark stripe of the gold show on the right side. An orange silk lining shows through the light parts and also looks striped. And now that I have EIGHT YARDS of it, I have to decide if I want to make a short sleeved 1380s gown with tippets, and have the gores all run the right way, or make a 1410s gown with floor length flap sleeves (or even something fuller), and never mind the gores.

FABRIC GROWS!
chargirlgenius: (Default)
We’ll be hosting Medieval Arts Day on Sunday, May 2nd. Medieval Arts Day consists of sewing, any other A&S you want to work on, rapier practice, and even archery (please bring targets). These will be held every two weeks, on weekends when we’re not out of town. We will be announcing them.

Please come over no earlier than 1pm. I usually have something on the stove for dinner; if you’re planning on staying for dinner please let me know and bring a side or dish to pass, pot luck style.

I may post more details later, but if you’re interested in coming, let me know! I can send directions, and I like to have some idea of who is all coming. Oh, one detail I don’t want to miss – kids welcome. We have a big playset, plus a basement playground if the weather isn’t good.
chargirlgenius: (Default)
First off, where on earth are the two spools of silk thread I bought two weeks ago? ARGH.

Secondly, I love the new gown that I made for my Lady Joan outfit. I love the color, I love the fact that it's very light weight wool and I'll be comfy in it even on hot days, and I love all of those damned buttons.

But I'm afraid that it doesn't drape very well in the skirt. I dunno, maybe I need to line it, but I don't think that would even really do the trick. I might rip out a couple of the seams and see if I can fix it by stretching the bias edge more or less. But since it's *really* lightweight wool, it just kind of floats... sticks to stuff. It just didn't really hang.

Maybe I'm being too picky, but I'm going to be a bit self-indulgent about it. Only because I can't find the silk with which I have to finish the seams. Gr.


ETA: Ok, I'll be even more self-indulgent and add some pics. )
chargirlgenius: (Default)
Both dresses are done for me to wear this weekend. Not DONE done, as there's still interior seam finishing, and the buttons on the sleeves to do, but done enough. But I'm not done sewing yet. I'm missing a pair of kid braies, so I have to finish up a pair tomorrow night. Luckily, I started them at MTA and there's not much left to do.

I need to take a sewing break after this, or at least a project break. I want to keep going, steadily but not intensely, finishing all of the interior seams, all of the quilting on Jeff's doublet, and all of that. But since the middle of January, I've made myself two dresses, Jeff's doublet o' hand-stitchy insanity, six gowns/tunics for the boys (luckily, I had help!), and a completely hand sewn pieced together cloak. And underpants.

My house needs attention, my kids need attention, and my husband needs attention. If it seems like all I've been posting about in LJ has been sewing, that's 'cause that's about all I've been doing.

Sunday?

Mar. 30th, 2010 12:48 pm
chargirlgenius: (Default)
Sunday is Easter. It's also the next scheduled sewing day. (Last time and the next time conflict with LH events.) Most of the Easter stuff we do is in the morning, so we'd still be happy to host sewing in the afternoon, hang out with friends, etc.

If we had sewing day, would anybody come?
chargirlgenius: (Default)
I really just want to veg on the internet for a few days, but if I do, I'm hosed.

The doublet is done, well, done enough for MTA, and it's not going to get worn again until October. So that's back burnered.

But I have two dresses to make before April 17th. Think I can do it?

The kirtle will be a four panel straight front seam supportive dress. I'm using blue silk twill. I washed it (yes, in the machine!) and dried it (yes, in the machine!) last night, and it is luscious. I have to see if I have enough of one type of linen to fully line it, and I might interline it too, to help support the silk. It'll be lace up, and I hope to have buttons on the sleeves.

The gown will probably be a red wool that I have. It's lightweight, and a fine weave, but the color is a madder red. I have a little bit to consider that. I have a richer red, but only four yards of it. This gown will have sleeve flaps (tippets) lined in white silk (probably) and buttons down the front.

My biggest challenge right now is finding buttons. This will be my Lady Joan robe for La Belle, and it has to be fancy schmancy. I'm hoping for silver or silver plate buttons, but the silver ones that Gaukler carries are outside of my price range (for as many I need). If anybody knows anybody who does silver plating (and could have it done in three weeks...), let me know!

All right! Off my butt and time to sew! Er... or rather, dig up lining and patterns and cut...
chargirlgenius: (Default)
He’s wearing pants! )

Stuff left to do:
Take pictures of how the points were sewn in.
Readjust the chest padding
The quilting is every two inches. It needs to be every inch.
Finish quilting around all of the seams.
Add eyelets up the entire wrist opening.
Add a collar for protection.
chargirlgenius: (Default)
You could take that to mean “the stuff in between the lining and the hemp”, or to mean the stuff that I did between posting pictures a month ago and last week. :-D

I’ve finished uploading pictures to the Arming Cote Picture Gallery. There might be some rearranging yet, but most of what’s going to be there is there.

During crunch time, I didn’t actually post that many pictures or describe my thought process much. Since I documented the heck out of everything else, I’d like to make it a complete garment diary.

I’m breaking this up into several posts, since there are a LOT of pictures in here.
Starting to pad and quilt the upper sleeve  )

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