Cartridge pleating and seam finiahing questions

[chargirlgenius]

Cartridge pleating question

I'm planning on cartridge pleating the sleeves onto Jeff's gown. I've never cartridge pleated before, though I'm sure I can handle it. I have a slight problem, in that the edge of the armhole of the gown was finished assuming that I would have a seam allowance (I hadn't thought about cartridge pleating when I did it).

I know that you're supposed to sew the pleats directly to the edge of the fabric. Is it worth me refinishing that edge (maybe folding it over, etc.) or can I pleat the edge of the sleeve to a arm hole with a seam allowance?

I'm also toying with the Elizabethan sewing technique of finishing all of the edges first. The sleeves are fully lined. I've sewn one of the silk sleeves shut, but I didn't finish the raw edges first, so I'm not sure if this is going to work. Perhaps I should have sewn the flat lining to the flat silk, first? I have another technique I'll probably do, along the sleeve length seam, at least. Stitch the layer of lining down in the ditch, folk it over, and then whip the other half of the lining down. As far as I know, though, this isn't documentable, but a more modern tailoring technique.



Brief explanation: The black lines are the silk, and the red lines are the linen. Stitches are left out. The two silk pieces are sewn together with a running stitch. The bottom (straight) red line is sewn to the silk with a running stich that comes out in the seam of the silk, thus hiding it from view. The second (top, bent) red line is sewn to the first lining, and maybe to the seam allowance of the silk, but not all the way through, with a whip stitch.

For the sleevehead, I might just sew the sleeves right side together, for my nice finished edge. I was looking at attack-laurel's description of the process, and she suggests sanwiching them together, right sides out, and doing a running stitch. Only trouble is, this is a significant curve, and I'm not sure how I can avoid seam clipping. Maybe it doesn't matter so much, as a good portion of the sleeve will be cartridge-pleated in to my armhole, but maybe there's a better way?

*sigh* I have lots of ideas, but so far, none of them are jumping out as exactly right, or right without any problems (self-caused or inherent). I'm open to thoughts from people who have used these techniques.

Comments

[reabhecc.livejournal.com]

The image didn't load for me, but I will say that if you are cartridge pleating, hemming the edge (by using the seam allowance) makes more sense than pleating with a raw edge. What you pleat shows. So, yes, fold it over. Will make the pleats pop more anyway.

On a side note, do you trim the lining on GFDs at the point where the gores start? or just let it hang down between?

[sskipstress.livejournal.com]

I have found that working by hand and pulling the fabric, I can do a narrow rolled hem or a folded over narrow edge (when using fulled fabric or covering with a lining) quite easily. And in your situation, that's probably what I'd do with the armscye and the sleevehead, then I'd pleat them, then I'd whipstitch the two together.

Your lining technique is actually kinda similar to the 2nd-to-last lining technique here (http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/linen.html#Linen) (gah, a click here, they're going to take away my web developer license)

[azpapillion.livejournal.com]

Why did you decide on cartridge pleating? Most of what i've seen is the knife pleats during the late 15th c.

Using the knife pleats allows you to easily finish the lining after the rest of the arm is put together.

I really don't think this should vary from how you line your GFD. The era is the same.

[mstra-margarita.livejournal.com]

I have dresses that I have cartridge pleated the sleeves on. I always finished the edge as it is neater, easier and faster.

[attack-laurel.livejournal.com]

The seam allowance for the curved sleeve should fold over fine if you stitch it down to itself first (i.e., "hem" the raw edges). That way, it doesn't fight the fabric on the other side of the seam. I've done it on significantly curved seams with no problem - but it depends on how large your seam allowance is. I usually keep mine to about half an inch.

Cartridge pleating the sleeve in with the seam allowance should work - just fold the edge of the shoulder so that it is the finished size. I usually hem each piece before I sew it, though. But attaching the cartridge pleating works the same whether you hem the raw edges or not - just fold over the edges, and work the cartridge pleats along the edge.

As long as your raw edges are inside the lining, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with them - the problem comes when it's rubbing against outside stuff, and being given a chance to fray.

I'll check in later today to see if you have any more questions. :)