Stretchy Fabric Alert!
Sep. 25th, 2008 09:55 amAs I was cutting into some linen last night, I recognized an issue that I’ve seen before. Not all linen is 100% linen. I’m sure this doesn’t come to a surprise to anybody, especially those who have browsed through a Jo-Anns at the “linen” only to discover that they have significant poly/rayon content.
This linen was stretchy, along the width. You might not notice at first, but if you take the whole width and pull, there’s significant stretch. More stretch than just normal fabric stretch – there’s definitely lycra in there.
In two instances that I’ve seen this, the person told me they bought the fabric from an SCA merchant who said that it was 100% linen. I’m NOT suggesting that the SCA merchant is trying to pull one over on us. I’m NOT suggesting that we should stop buying from SCA merchants. I’m guessing that the merchants (two different ones, as far as I can tell) bought the fabric from a source that told them that it was 100% linen. I’m sure they don’t have time to burn test everything.
Lesson is, be wary. Especially with linens, take up a few feet, and pull, both lengthwise and across the grain. See what happens. Do a burn test. Nothing should bubble or melt. If you feel some stretch, and the burn test comes up clean, do a burn test on the warp and weft separately. A fabric merchant should be an expert, and should be able to help you do the burn test, or bring a friend with you.
That doesn’t mean that you can’t use it. I’m using some linen like that for a supportive dress, but I’m lining it in a 5.3 oz white linen from fabrics-store.com, which I *know* is 100% linen, and is supportive along the grain. I’ve seen it in linens and wools, plain fabrics and ready-to-wear medieval clothing. Just know what you have, and keep your eye out about what you’re buying. Communicate with the merchant, because they don’t likely know either.
This linen was stretchy, along the width. You might not notice at first, but if you take the whole width and pull, there’s significant stretch. More stretch than just normal fabric stretch – there’s definitely lycra in there.
In two instances that I’ve seen this, the person told me they bought the fabric from an SCA merchant who said that it was 100% linen. I’m NOT suggesting that the SCA merchant is trying to pull one over on us. I’m NOT suggesting that we should stop buying from SCA merchants. I’m guessing that the merchants (two different ones, as far as I can tell) bought the fabric from a source that told them that it was 100% linen. I’m sure they don’t have time to burn test everything.
Lesson is, be wary. Especially with linens, take up a few feet, and pull, both lengthwise and across the grain. See what happens. Do a burn test. Nothing should bubble or melt. If you feel some stretch, and the burn test comes up clean, do a burn test on the warp and weft separately. A fabric merchant should be an expert, and should be able to help you do the burn test, or bring a friend with you.
That doesn’t mean that you can’t use it. I’m using some linen like that for a supportive dress, but I’m lining it in a 5.3 oz white linen from fabrics-store.com, which I *know* is 100% linen, and is supportive along the grain. I’ve seen it in linens and wools, plain fabrics and ready-to-wear medieval clothing. Just know what you have, and keep your eye out about what you’re buying. Communicate with the merchant, because they don’t likely know either.