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A *gasp* costuming post!
Jan. 23rd, 2010 11:15 pmAs you may recall, sometime *ahem* before the holidays I started fitting Jeff for another Charles de Blois pourpoint. And when I say "before holidays", maybe I'm referring to Halloween. Maybe even Columbus Day.
I got the body pieces fitted on him, but I left the sleeves for later. And if you know anything about that garment, you'll know that the sleeves are the interesting part. They're also the part that needed the most change from the last time I did this.
Why yes, I am just posting links to other posts with pictures, because I was an idiot and didn't take pictures this time. Duh.
So tonight, I fit the sleeve. I started by drawing the lines on his body about where I wanted them, based on where the original was, on where his shoulder was, and a line about equidistant from that circumference. I tried keeping the sleeve opening a bit less deep than I had it last time, so it more closely matched the original.
For the sleeve itself, I started by cutting something close to what would fit on his upper arm (at the bottom, that just extended into a straight, wide-ish head. It was all getting cut anyway. For reference, look at the link up top, and I just cut what I thought would be the flat part of the sleeve, if it weren't cut into two pieces.
I wrapped it around his arm, cutting the gore slits as I went. When I got to the back, it was going alright, but I wasn't entirely happy with the fit, or how I would finish it off. The first round of fitting usually gets me a really loose sleeve around the shoulder, but then I keep pulling it in more closely until it's a pretty decent fit. This didn't look like it would work out well.
I started looking at the original a little more, and noticed that the top part of the sleeve actually had two main parts (in addition to the gores). It was split, and this time I looked more closely and realized that there was tailoring along that seam.
I cut the underarm gore narrower, like in the original, cut up the underarm slit all the way to the elbow, and repinned it all.
Lo and behold, it worked *much* better. So here's the lesson. At first glance, it looks like a big complex nasty thing. But in the end, there's only one piece to the original that I didn't cut separately. I'll only have one less seam than the original. Huh. Go figure.
I'll have to talk about padding and such tomorrow. I'm exhausted and freezing. Whee!
I got the body pieces fitted on him, but I left the sleeves for later. And if you know anything about that garment, you'll know that the sleeves are the interesting part. They're also the part that needed the most change from the last time I did this.
Why yes, I am just posting links to other posts with pictures, because I was an idiot and didn't take pictures this time. Duh.
So tonight, I fit the sleeve. I started by drawing the lines on his body about where I wanted them, based on where the original was, on where his shoulder was, and a line about equidistant from that circumference. I tried keeping the sleeve opening a bit less deep than I had it last time, so it more closely matched the original.
For the sleeve itself, I started by cutting something close to what would fit on his upper arm (at the bottom, that just extended into a straight, wide-ish head. It was all getting cut anyway. For reference, look at the link up top, and I just cut what I thought would be the flat part of the sleeve, if it weren't cut into two pieces.
I wrapped it around his arm, cutting the gore slits as I went. When I got to the back, it was going alright, but I wasn't entirely happy with the fit, or how I would finish it off. The first round of fitting usually gets me a really loose sleeve around the shoulder, but then I keep pulling it in more closely until it's a pretty decent fit. This didn't look like it would work out well.
I started looking at the original a little more, and noticed that the top part of the sleeve actually had two main parts (in addition to the gores). It was split, and this time I looked more closely and realized that there was tailoring along that seam.
I cut the underarm gore narrower, like in the original, cut up the underarm slit all the way to the elbow, and repinned it all.
Lo and behold, it worked *much* better. So here's the lesson. At first glance, it looks like a big complex nasty thing. But in the end, there's only one piece to the original that I didn't cut separately. I'll only have one less seam than the original. Huh. Go figure.
I'll have to talk about padding and such tomorrow. I'm exhausted and freezing. Whee!
