The seam allowance for the curved sleeve should fold over fine if you stitch it down to itself first (i.e., "hem" the raw edges). That way, it doesn't fight the fabric on the other side of the seam. I've done it on significantly curved seams with no problem - but it depends on how large your seam allowance is. I usually keep mine to about half an inch.
Cartridge pleating the sleeve in with the seam allowance should work - just fold the edge of the shoulder so that it is the finished size. I usually hem each piece before I sew it, though. But attaching the cartridge pleating works the same whether you hem the raw edges or not - just fold over the edges, and work the cartridge pleats along the edge.
As long as your raw edges are inside the lining, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with them - the problem comes when it's rubbing against outside stuff, and being given a chance to fray.
I'll check in later today to see if you have any more questions. :)
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regna
(no subject)
Date: 2008-07-10 10:03 am (UTC)Cartridge pleating the sleeve in with the seam allowance should work - just fold the edge of the shoulder so that it is the finished size. I usually hem each piece before I sew it, though. But attaching the cartridge pleating works the same whether you hem the raw edges or not - just fold over the edges, and work the cartridge pleats along the edge.
As long as your raw edges are inside the lining, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with them - the problem comes when it's rubbing against outside stuff, and being given a chance to fray.
I'll check in later today to see if you have any more questions. :)