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chargirlgeniusETA: Putting this on top.
I’ve already mentioned my plans to draft fitted dresses based on measurements. The tests are so far looking good, but I need your help!
Have you been wishing for a fitted dress, but haven’t been able to find anybody to fit you? Haven’t been able to make it to a workshop? Live too far away? Here’s your chance!
For a limited time, I will be offering fittings by mail and email. I’ll be doing two a week, on a first come, first served basis, until such time as I run out of local commissions, or I feel like my skills are well enough perfected to do commissions from a distance. I simply don’t have enough people that I see in-person on a regular basis on which to practice. And since I never kept copies of my old work, I need more practice.
“First come, first served” is based on people getting me measurements and photos. I will draft a pattern for a four panel self-supported dress (including sleeves, so it’s useful to you), and mail it to you. Here’s where the “help” comes in. I need you to use the pattern to cut a mock up (just of the four panels), sew it, and pin it on, and provide me with a review of how it works. Pictures are worth a thousand words (and won’t be shared with anybody). I’d prefer to mail the paper pattern to keep costs low, but if you have no confidence at all that you can put the four panels together, we’ll work something out.
ETA: If possible, I'd like people to commit if they can give me feedback within a week or two of receiving the pattern. That allows me to continually improve my skills. Thanks!
A note about body types:
Every body is different. Everybody comes to fittings saying “my body is weird.” You are not alone. Your body is unique, and you can work with it to make the most of it. I don’t like to beat around the bush about the human body. Some are larger, some are smaller, some people have tiny breasts, and others have huge tracts of land. Most people are slightly asymmetrical, some people are very asymmetrical. In fitting classes, we talk about the body the way it is, not about the way we wish it were.
I’ve yet to meet the body where a dress fitting has failed. Some are simpler, some are more difficult, but almost everybody can find a look that makes them feel beautiful.
That said, every body *is* different. The larger you are, the more movable everything is. Somebody who is a size 26 is going to be shaped differently from somebody else who is a size 26. Somebody who is a size 8 is going to be more similar to other size 8s. In my experience, the larger you are, the more unique and challenging your figure is going to be. This is not a bad thing, but it is something that we need to take into account when drafting. You probably already know from clothes shopping that a garment might be big enough in one place, but fit very strangely in another.
I know from experience that I’d be able to fit you in person. But it’s going to be more challenging on paper. I will try, but if you are size 22W or above, it might be best to wait until I have more experience. Or, if we try now, we can also try later when I get more practice.
I’m also not going to accommodate for unevenness right now. If you’re slightly different one each size, make a note of it, but we’ll see what we can do with an evened out pattern.
Measuring for Success: Taking Measurements for a Drafted Supportive Four Panel Bodice
The success of the fitted dress created from drafted measurements largely depends on the accuracy of the measurements themselves. It’s important that when I ask for a particular measurement, I’m able to effectively communicate exactly what I mean. I’ll start for a list of the measurements, but it’s critical that you read on so that you understand what I’m asking for. If you send me measurements with annotations, so much the better. The more we communicate, the better your pattern will be.
If possible, wear a sports bra while taking these measurements. Measurements work best when the breasts are completely above the bra line, and are squished together. In short, they should be lifted, but not separated. They don’t need to be in the exact final position, but space between the breasts leads to incorrect measurements.
A: Point of shoulder to point of shoulder, across the back
B: Circumference of the chest at the bra strap
C: Center front of B, to point of shoulder
D: Center back of B, to point of shoulder
E: Circumference of widest part of breasts, wearing a sports bra
F: Armpit to armpit, across the back, along the line of E
G: Center front of B, up over the sports bra, to lowest point of desired neckline (it’s important that this goes over the fullness of the breasts)
H: Circumference of waist
I: Circumference of point of hips**
J: Distance from bra strap to waist
K: Distance from bra strap to point of hips
L: Point of hips to floor
M: Circumference of shoulder (around point of shoulder into the armpit)
N: circumference of widest part of bicep
O: Point of shoulder to wrist
P: Circumference of wrist
Q: Circumference of open hand
R: Circumference of half bent elbow
Photos: These should be taken while wearing a tank top (over the sports bra) and leggings, or something that shows the shape of the body. Please put hair up.
Please send all measurements and photos to mathilde at mathildegirlgenius dot com. Thanks!
Additional information:
A: Point of shoulder to point of shoulder, across the back
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/DressFitting/Cotehardie_project_062.jpg
Feel around at the top of your shoulder. You should be able to feel the outer end of your clavicle, it might feel like a little knob. Just outside of this is a divot where the joint is, and below that is the top of your humerus, or your upper arm bone. If you place your finger on the outer end of your clavicle and move your arm around, you should notice that your finger doesn’t move (much). I’m calling this knob, or the tip of your clavicle, the point of your shoulder. This is definitely on the top of your shoulder, not down the arm at all. Stand up straight, and have somebody measure the distance between the points of the shoulders, the shortest distance across your back.
B: Circumference of the chest at the bra strap
Measure the circumference around your chest, at the level where a bra strap would be in the front. Pull this measurement as snugly as possible.
C: Center front of B, to point of shoulder
For this measurement, it is key to wear a sports bra, or something that doesn’t leave a gap between the breasts. Make sure that you’re standing up straight, but not unnaturally so. This measurement should be snug.
D: Center back of B, to point of shoulder
Stand up straight, but not unnaturally so. Your posture in C and D should be about the same. This measurement should be snug.
E: Circumference of widest part of breasts, wearing a sports bra
Your girls should be supported up nice and high. If they aren’t, you might need to combine bras – one for support and the other to squish. This measurement should be snug.
F: Armpit to armpit, across the back, along the line of E
Measure from about the middle of your armpit on each side.
G: Center front of B, up over the sports bra, to lowest point of desired neckline
It’s important that this goes over the fullness of the breasts. If you look straight down at the breasts, and you have mono boob, the center measurement will work just fine.
H: Circumference of waist
Don’t pull tight, but don’t leave this loose, either. How loose or tight I pull the waist in will depend a lot on your body shape. A lot of us have back rolls. If this measurement is in the valley of a back roll, let me know.
I: Circumference of point of hips
http://www.naomismaclass.com/docs/Bones%20and%20Skeletal%20System_files/image003.jpg
There is a green arrow pointing at the right side of the female pelvis. This is approximately where I would like this measurement.
If you cannot find the point of the hips, just use a standard hip measurement (or measure anywhere in the general vicinity of the hips if you’re not sure). Just make sure that you get K and L correct for this measurement.
J: Distance from bra strap to waist
If this is slightly different sides and front, or front to back, don’t worry about it. If anything is wildly different, let me know.
K: Distance from bra strap to point of hips
Measurement in the front.
L: Point of hips to floor
Side measurement.
M: Circumference of shoulder (around point of shoulder into the armpit)
Measure with the shoulder joint on the outside. Tuck this right up into the armpit, but don’t pull tight.
N: circumference of widest part of bicep
Don’t pull this tight.
O: Point of shoulder to wrist
Measure this over the elbow, half bent.
P: Circumference of wrist
Q: Circumference of open hand
Hold out hand as if you were trying to squeeze it through a tight bracelet. Smallest measurement that you can fit your hand through.
R: Circumference of half bent elbow
Measure over the point of the elbow. Don’t pull the tape measure tight.
For more info on sleeve measurement, see here.
Please let me know if you have questions about the above.
Thank you!
I’ve already mentioned my plans to draft fitted dresses based on measurements. The tests are so far looking good, but I need your help!
Have you been wishing for a fitted dress, but haven’t been able to find anybody to fit you? Haven’t been able to make it to a workshop? Live too far away? Here’s your chance!
For a limited time, I will be offering fittings by mail and email. I’ll be doing two a week, on a first come, first served basis, until such time as I run out of local commissions, or I feel like my skills are well enough perfected to do commissions from a distance. I simply don’t have enough people that I see in-person on a regular basis on which to practice. And since I never kept copies of my old work, I need more practice.
“First come, first served” is based on people getting me measurements and photos. I will draft a pattern for a four panel self-supported dress (including sleeves, so it’s useful to you), and mail it to you. Here’s where the “help” comes in. I need you to use the pattern to cut a mock up (just of the four panels), sew it, and pin it on, and provide me with a review of how it works. Pictures are worth a thousand words (and won’t be shared with anybody). I’d prefer to mail the paper pattern to keep costs low, but if you have no confidence at all that you can put the four panels together, we’ll work something out.
ETA: If possible, I'd like people to commit if they can give me feedback within a week or two of receiving the pattern. That allows me to continually improve my skills. Thanks!
A note about body types:
Every body is different. Everybody comes to fittings saying “my body is weird.” You are not alone. Your body is unique, and you can work with it to make the most of it. I don’t like to beat around the bush about the human body. Some are larger, some are smaller, some people have tiny breasts, and others have huge tracts of land. Most people are slightly asymmetrical, some people are very asymmetrical. In fitting classes, we talk about the body the way it is, not about the way we wish it were.
I’ve yet to meet the body where a dress fitting has failed. Some are simpler, some are more difficult, but almost everybody can find a look that makes them feel beautiful.
That said, every body *is* different. The larger you are, the more movable everything is. Somebody who is a size 26 is going to be shaped differently from somebody else who is a size 26. Somebody who is a size 8 is going to be more similar to other size 8s. In my experience, the larger you are, the more unique and challenging your figure is going to be. This is not a bad thing, but it is something that we need to take into account when drafting. You probably already know from clothes shopping that a garment might be big enough in one place, but fit very strangely in another.
I know from experience that I’d be able to fit you in person. But it’s going to be more challenging on paper. I will try, but if you are size 22W or above, it might be best to wait until I have more experience. Or, if we try now, we can also try later when I get more practice.
I’m also not going to accommodate for unevenness right now. If you’re slightly different one each size, make a note of it, but we’ll see what we can do with an evened out pattern.
Measuring for Success: Taking Measurements for a Drafted Supportive Four Panel Bodice
The success of the fitted dress created from drafted measurements largely depends on the accuracy of the measurements themselves. It’s important that when I ask for a particular measurement, I’m able to effectively communicate exactly what I mean. I’ll start for a list of the measurements, but it’s critical that you read on so that you understand what I’m asking for. If you send me measurements with annotations, so much the better. The more we communicate, the better your pattern will be.
If possible, wear a sports bra while taking these measurements. Measurements work best when the breasts are completely above the bra line, and are squished together. In short, they should be lifted, but not separated. They don’t need to be in the exact final position, but space between the breasts leads to incorrect measurements.
A: Point of shoulder to point of shoulder, across the back
B: Circumference of the chest at the bra strap
C: Center front of B, to point of shoulder
D: Center back of B, to point of shoulder
E: Circumference of widest part of breasts, wearing a sports bra
F: Armpit to armpit, across the back, along the line of E
G: Center front of B, up over the sports bra, to lowest point of desired neckline (it’s important that this goes over the fullness of the breasts)
H: Circumference of waist
I: Circumference of point of hips**
J: Distance from bra strap to waist
K: Distance from bra strap to point of hips
L: Point of hips to floor
M: Circumference of shoulder (around point of shoulder into the armpit)
N: circumference of widest part of bicep
O: Point of shoulder to wrist
P: Circumference of wrist
Q: Circumference of open hand
R: Circumference of half bent elbow
Photos: These should be taken while wearing a tank top (over the sports bra) and leggings, or something that shows the shape of the body. Please put hair up.
- Frontal (neck to knees)
- Side View
- Back
Please send all measurements and photos to mathilde at mathildegirlgenius dot com. Thanks!
Additional information:
A: Point of shoulder to point of shoulder, across the back
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/DressFitting/Cotehardie_project_062.jpg
Feel around at the top of your shoulder. You should be able to feel the outer end of your clavicle, it might feel like a little knob. Just outside of this is a divot where the joint is, and below that is the top of your humerus, or your upper arm bone. If you place your finger on the outer end of your clavicle and move your arm around, you should notice that your finger doesn’t move (much). I’m calling this knob, or the tip of your clavicle, the point of your shoulder. This is definitely on the top of your shoulder, not down the arm at all. Stand up straight, and have somebody measure the distance between the points of the shoulders, the shortest distance across your back.
B: Circumference of the chest at the bra strap
Measure the circumference around your chest, at the level where a bra strap would be in the front. Pull this measurement as snugly as possible.
C: Center front of B, to point of shoulder
For this measurement, it is key to wear a sports bra, or something that doesn’t leave a gap between the breasts. Make sure that you’re standing up straight, but not unnaturally so. This measurement should be snug.
D: Center back of B, to point of shoulder
Stand up straight, but not unnaturally so. Your posture in C and D should be about the same. This measurement should be snug.
E: Circumference of widest part of breasts, wearing a sports bra
Your girls should be supported up nice and high. If they aren’t, you might need to combine bras – one for support and the other to squish. This measurement should be snug.
F: Armpit to armpit, across the back, along the line of E
Measure from about the middle of your armpit on each side.
G: Center front of B, up over the sports bra, to lowest point of desired neckline
It’s important that this goes over the fullness of the breasts. If you look straight down at the breasts, and you have mono boob, the center measurement will work just fine.
H: Circumference of waist
Don’t pull tight, but don’t leave this loose, either. How loose or tight I pull the waist in will depend a lot on your body shape. A lot of us have back rolls. If this measurement is in the valley of a back roll, let me know.
I: Circumference of point of hips
http://www.naomismaclass.com/docs/Bones%20and%20Skeletal%20System_files/image003.jpg
There is a green arrow pointing at the right side of the female pelvis. This is approximately where I would like this measurement.
If you cannot find the point of the hips, just use a standard hip measurement (or measure anywhere in the general vicinity of the hips if you’re not sure). Just make sure that you get K and L correct for this measurement.
J: Distance from bra strap to waist
If this is slightly different sides and front, or front to back, don’t worry about it. If anything is wildly different, let me know.
K: Distance from bra strap to point of hips
Measurement in the front.
L: Point of hips to floor
Side measurement.
M: Circumference of shoulder (around point of shoulder into the armpit)
Measure with the shoulder joint on the outside. Tuck this right up into the armpit, but don’t pull tight.
N: circumference of widest part of bicep
Don’t pull this tight.
O: Point of shoulder to wrist
Measure this over the elbow, half bent.
P: Circumference of wrist
Q: Circumference of open hand
Hold out hand as if you were trying to squeeze it through a tight bracelet. Smallest measurement that you can fit your hand through.
R: Circumference of half bent elbow
Measure over the point of the elbow. Don’t pull the tape measure tight.
For more info on sleeve measurement, see here.
Please let me know if you have questions about the above.
Thank you!