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chargirlgeniusOops. I had this all written last night and forgot to post it.
I did a first round of fitting Jeff for the arming cote. Since I couldn't find my pattern pieces from before, and I want to change up the arms anyway, I started from scratch. But cheating. Since he has a doublet (I tend to use a lot of these terms interchangeably) I didn't want to completely lose what I'd done on that, in terms of seam placement, etc. So I fit him over it.
This should be interesting, because now that I have the body panels fit, I evened out the sides, sewed it up, and now I'll put it on him for tweaking, and to put the sleeves in. I'll be able to see what the difference is between fitting over his current doublet, and how the first layer next to his skin should fit. I wonder how big the size difference will be?
That fitting wasn't particularly exciting, but it did illustrate a point that I like to bring up when teaching fitting and sleeve classes. Fabric will tell you where the seams should be. This can be used to fit armscyes, but is particularly apparent in this garment.
The original CdB pourpoint has a seam across the waist on the back. This seam is essential to get the smooth fit on this back panel. You can get away without a waist seam on a four panel garment, if you have a seam down the back to fit over the rise of the rear-end.
The pin in here is just a marker. No seam has been added or pinned in yet, I've just been pinning along the sides and the front to get the tight fit. As the fit has gotten tighter, this crease across the back waist has formed.
This might be a bit trickier on fitting a man who has less of a natural waist. We've all forgotten where our waists are, largely. Almost every man I know, no matter how heavy or thin, had another divot at his hips where his modern pants sit. I think that people have been formed by wearing pants in a certain place all of their lives. In any case, there's a second wrinkle that often forms lower down, at the top of the pant line. But since the original had no seam there, and it would look stupid to have two seams going across the back, we have to run with it.
I pinned a seam in where the wrinkle was previously. That smoothed out the whole back, and improves the fit.
See! Fitting is intuitive!
I did a first round of fitting Jeff for the arming cote. Since I couldn't find my pattern pieces from before, and I want to change up the arms anyway, I started from scratch. But cheating. Since he has a doublet (I tend to use a lot of these terms interchangeably) I didn't want to completely lose what I'd done on that, in terms of seam placement, etc. So I fit him over it.
This should be interesting, because now that I have the body panels fit, I evened out the sides, sewed it up, and now I'll put it on him for tweaking, and to put the sleeves in. I'll be able to see what the difference is between fitting over his current doublet, and how the first layer next to his skin should fit. I wonder how big the size difference will be?
That fitting wasn't particularly exciting, but it did illustrate a point that I like to bring up when teaching fitting and sleeve classes. Fabric will tell you where the seams should be. This can be used to fit armscyes, but is particularly apparent in this garment.
The original CdB pourpoint has a seam across the waist on the back. This seam is essential to get the smooth fit on this back panel. You can get away without a waist seam on a four panel garment, if you have a seam down the back to fit over the rise of the rear-end.
The pin in here is just a marker. No seam has been added or pinned in yet, I've just been pinning along the sides and the front to get the tight fit. As the fit has gotten tighter, this crease across the back waist has formed.
This might be a bit trickier on fitting a man who has less of a natural waist. We've all forgotten where our waists are, largely. Almost every man I know, no matter how heavy or thin, had another divot at his hips where his modern pants sit. I think that people have been formed by wearing pants in a certain place all of their lives. In any case, there's a second wrinkle that often forms lower down, at the top of the pant line. But since the original had no seam there, and it would look stupid to have two seams going across the back, we have to run with it.
I pinned a seam in where the wrinkle was previously. That smoothed out the whole back, and improves the fit.
See! Fitting is intuitive!
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Date: 2009-09-13 01:52 am (UTC)aha! moments in clothing
Date: 2009-09-13 12:15 pm (UTC)Some time later, as she was fiddling with shoulders, she took some measurements, including a 1/4" difference between my left and right shoulders. Then she went back to her notes on the survival, and the measurements were EXACTLY THE SAME -- right down to the 1/4" difference. I have the body of the original wearer.
Unfortunately, the garment-in-progress disappeared, and she had an attack of life, so the project has been indefinitely postponed.